Queenstown is my happy place. I’ve been to this lively Kiwi alpine town no less than ten times, yet every single time I see the magnificent snow-capped peaks of the Remarkables through the window of my descending plane, I feel an indescribable surge of joy.
I’ve been coming here since I was a student in the University of Canterbury, driving a rented Toyota Starlet and staying at the YHA. Eventually, my husband and I got married and had our honeymoon here.
Queenstown is a vibrant little resort town in the South Island of New Zealand, nestled among the tall peaks of the Southern Alps. It punches high above its weight – despite being a town with less than 30,000 people, it has an international airport, several big global chains, a Pak N Save and a Countdown.
That last part is big, by the way. By Kiwi standards, if you have both of these supermarkets, you’re practically a city.
The thing that I like best about Queenstown is that it has all the convenience and cuisine and nightlife of a city… but if you wander just a few steps away from the touristy parts, all of a sudden you’ll find yourself alone in a vast expanse of rugged peaks and tussock grasslands.
Best time of the year to visit Queenstown
Honestly, there’s no bad time to visit Queenstown. We’ve been here in all four seasons and each visit was glorious in its own way. It just depends on what you are looking for, and what activities you want to do.
Summer (Dec – Feb)
Summers can be hot with daytime temperatures potentially rising to 30C, but most days will be in the low 20s. It’s a dry heat, so it’s not too uncomfortable – I don’t have a high heat tolerance, but I can still do outdoorsy stuff in Queenstown just fine in the summer.
The best part about summer is the lupins – from late November to early January, the fields near Queenstown are full of these colorful flowers that are as tall as a human (or as tall as me, anyway). And of course, if you are planning on doing any serious hiking, summer is the best time.
Summer is peak tourist season, though, so expect increased accommodation and flight prices during this time.
Autumn (Mar – May)
Autumns are crisp and you can feel the chill in the air, but it’s still warm enough to spend time outdoors comfortably. Daytime temperatures are typically in the 12C – 18C range.
The deciduous trees in Queenstown will start to change color, mostly turning a beautiful golden hue with the exception of a few red maples. Arrowtown, a historic village 20 minutes away from Queenstown by car, is a popular spot for autumn foliage viewing, with rich hues of red and gold blanketing its hilly landscape.
Autumn in Queenstown is shoulder season, so prices are cheaper.
Winter (Jun – Aug)
Winters are fairly cold, with daytime temperatures in the single digits and nights frequently dipping below 0C. It rarely snows on ground level, but there will be plenty of snow on the mountains nearby, and sometimes even the hills. The Remarkables shrouded in snow are truly magnificent, by the way.
Ski season is in full swing during the winter, with several ski field options nearby. There isn’t much on-mountain accommodation in the New Zealand ski fields, so Queenstown essentially functions as New Zealand’s main ski town in the winter, complete with après-ski activities.
Due to this, winter is the second-most expensive time to stay in Queenstown, after summer.
Spring (Sep – Nov)
Spring is my personal favorite time to visit Queenstown! There is still snow on the mountains and you can still ski, but at lower elevations Persephone has begun weaving her magic.
Azaleas, magnolias and cherry blossoms start to bloom, their brilliant shades of pink and white contrasting beautifully with the cornflower blue skies. Beds of tulips and daffodils adorn gardens and parks. The Queenstown Botanic Gardens are an especially picturesque stroll during this time of the year.
Just like the autumn, spring is shoulder season, so you’re more likely to find a good bargain.
Getting there and around
By air
Queenstown has an international airport, but it doesn’t have as many direct connections as the bigger cities. So if you’re coming from anywhere that isn’t Australia or Fiji, chances are you’ll be transiting at Auckland or Christchurch airport beforehand.
Once you arrive at the airport, central Queenstown is only a 10-minute drive away. There are cabs and shuttles that can take you to your accommodation, and if you are renting a car, you can pick it up at the airport.
You can also take the public bus from the Frankton Bus Hub near the airport to central Queenstown. Buses run once every 20-30 minutes on average.
By car
I strongly recommend renting a car when you arrive. It will allow you so much more freedom in your travels, and many of the best spots can only be reached by car. There are a ton of car rental companies available at the airport, and the prices aren’t bad.
Also, the NZ South Island road trip is a popular bucket list item for a reason, and you can’t do that without a car.
Parking: It isn’t too hard to find parking in Queenstown or in any of the tourist attractions nearby. In the center of Queenstown, however, there aren’t many free roadside carparks available, so you might have to either park a few blocks away, or pay to park at one of the designated carparks.
Road conditions: The roads leading to and from Queenstown are sealed and pretty cruisy by Kiwi standards, but it can still be hair raising if you’re not used to alpine driving. Make sure to give yourself plenty of time – you should not rely on Google Maps time estimates when you are driving on New Zealand roads.
Winter driving: You may need to carry snow chains in your car if you are here during the winter. Also, during the colder months it’s advisable to not start driving early in the morning, as there is often black ice on the roads.
By bus
Bus or coach is the cheapest way to travel in and around Queenstown. However, it does limit the places you can go to, and buses are not very frequent.
If you are flying in and out in the span of a few days, or you don’t feel comfortable driving in New Zealand, or if you are here for a specific activity like skiing, it makes sense to not rent a car and take the bus. In that case, you should make sure to pick a centrally located accommodation.
Aside from that, there is a public ferry but it is even less frequent than buses and it only has 4 stops. New Zealand has few trains in general, and none of them go to Queenstown.
Where to stay
Accommodation in Queenstown is expensive, even by New Zealand standards. The first time I visited in 2010, dorm beds were going for $20 (NZD), and you could get a private room in a motel or backpackers’ lodge for $60.
Queenstown has grown massively in popularity since then, and nowadays during peak season you can expect to pay upwards of $100 a night for a dorm bed, and $200 for a private room.
For the best prices, visit during shoulder season, book at least 3 months in advance, and avoid weekends if you can.
Budget
Backpackers’ lodges or hostels are still the cheapest places to stay at in New Zealand, unless you’re willing to sleep in a tent. A big advantage is that they usually have fully-equipped communal kitchens where you can cook all your meals, which saves you more than $50 a day.
Unfortunately, the backpackers that I stayed at during my student years (YHA and Base) are gone, replaced by newer offerings. These are some of the more highly-rated ones:
- Adventure Queenstown Hostel. Located right in the center of town and providing bike rentals, this hostel is perfect if you’re just staying for a few days and don’t want to rent a car.
- Absoloot Hostel QT. Modern lodgings by the waterfront with a ton of great reviews.
Mid range
- Double Tree by Hilton. We’ve stayed here several times and it’s a solid bet each time. Modern and warm rooms, good prices, clean, and all the facilities you need for a comfy stay. It’s on the other side of the Kawarau river across from Frankton, which makes it quieter and less crowded, but you will need a car. There is a ferry that can take you to the center of Queenstown, but it only runs once every 1-2 hours and stops at 9.45pm.
- BreakFree The Point Queenstown. Serviced apartments right on the banks of Lake Wakatipu (not on the other side of the road, which is where most hotels are), with amazing views. They come with kitchenettes so you can cook simple meals if you want.
Luxury
- The Rees Hotel. For luxury accommodation in Queenstown, it’s hard to go past the Rees. They are in a prime location right on the shoreline of Lake Wakatipu, and the views of the Remarkables from the floor-to-ceiling windows in the rooms are breathtaking. We stayed here during our wedding and honeymoon, and it was a phenomenal experience.
- Stoneridge Estate. Located a 5-minute drive away from Queenstown at Lake Hayes Estate, Stoneridge Estate provides boutique accommodation next to their vineyard and restaurant. We didn’t stay in their lodging, but we held our wedding here, and their grounds and quaint historic buildings are absolutely gorgeous.
Things to do in Queenstown
Chilled-out activities that are accessible to most mobility levels
Queenstown is known as the “adventure capital” of New Zealand… but personally, I love Queenstown and I’m not big on adrenaline rushes. There’s a lot of fun stuff to do for folks who just don’t like feeling their pulse race, or for those with mobility concerns.
- Soak in the onsen hot pools. Nothing quite beats the experience of lying back in your own private onsen, sipping wine and looking out over the stunning Shotover River. You can go all out and book packages with massages and spa included, but in my experience, the “original onsen” or “outdoor onsen” experiences are the best value for money. You can go in the day for the fantastic views, or at night to look up at the stars in warm comfort. Make sure to book early – they book out 1-2 weeks in advance sometimes.
- Wander around the Queenstown Botanic Gardens. The best photography spot for the Remarkables is in the Queenstown Botanic Gardens. Walk around the edge of the peninsula and you will be rewarded with a gorgeous vantage point of the mountain range, juxtaposed against the crystal clear waters of Lake Wakatipu. The gardens itself has a quaint cobblestone bridge and pond, and lots of pretty flowers in all seasons.
- Take the Skyline Gondola up Bob’s Peak. You’ll have panoramic views of Lake Wakatipu and the surrounding mountain ranges, and you can add on a luge ride if you wish! Unfortunately I can’t recommend eating at the restaurant at the top – I find it to be overpriced and overcrowded. We paid a lot of money for a rushed dinner, as they started packing up the food stations 45 minutes after our seating time. Instead, I’d recommend packing a meal and enjoying it on the deck.
- Stroll around the Wakatipu lakefront. One of the best things about Queenstown is that you don’t really need a specific itinerary. Everywhere you go is picture-perfect, so it’s a great place to just… exist. We’ve spent many happy afternoons just chilling out by the lakefront with some fish n’ chips, watching the birds, lying under the willow trees, or strolling down Steamer Wharf.
- Ride the TSS Earnslaw Steamer. The TSS Earnslaw is a coal-fired steamship that goes around the lake – you’ll definitely notice it when you see it! There are several different tour options: you can just take a short cruise around the lake, or you can take it to a private farm at Walter’s peak where they’ll feed you and show you around.
- Drive to Moke Lake and Skippers’ Canyon (30 minutes). These are Queenstown’s best-kept secrets! We did our wedding photoshoots in Queenstown, and our fantastic photographer took us to these spots. You’ll have phenomenal views of rugged peaks and glacial fed rivers and lakes… and best of all, you’ll probably have the place to yourself.
Higher-energy activities
- Ski the Remarkables (winter). Arguably New Zealand’s most well-known ski field, the Remarkables ski season generally runs from June to October. Unlike in European ski towns, NZ ski fields have few or no accommodation options and are basically shut at night, so you should count on driving up to the field each day. The road to the Remarkables is unsealed and slightly gnarly, although still doable with a 2WD. If you’re not comfortable driving, take the shuttle bus up. Other ski fields in Queenstown include Coronet Peak (the closest to town, with a fully sealed road), Cardrona (closer to Wanaka than Queenstown, and very popular) and Treble Cone (good for more advanced skiers).
- Go skydiving or paragliding. Tandem skydiving and paragliding are incredibly popular activities in Queenstown. On good weather days you’ll see scores of skydivers and paragliders descending, their brightly-colored parachutes speckled across the blue sky. With skydiving, they’ll take you up on a small plane, and paragliders will usually descend from the top of the Skyline Gondola.
- Take a jet boat ride through the Shotover River Canyon. From our vantage point in the onsen, we could see a bunch of jet boats skipping through the twists and turns of the Shotover River! The glacial, bright blue river winds its way through sheer cliffs and under historic bridges.
- Jump off the Kawarau Gorge suspension bridge. AJ Hackett runs a zipride, swing, and bungee jump over the Kawarau Gorge, and the folks who have done it cannot stop talking about it! Even if you’re not participating, it’s pretty cool to watch. The Kawarau Gorge itself is gorge-ous (ahem, pardon the pun) and worth the drive.
- Hike up Ben Lomond (summer). You can hike up to the top of Ben Lomond for a higher viewpoint (and even better views) than the ones offered by the Skyline Gondola viewing platform. If you start from the top of the gondola, it will take around 4 hours return, and if you want to skip the gondola and start from the bottom, it’ll take closer to 8. It’s a long hike that requires a good fitness level, but the panoramic views are out of this world. As always, follow DOC’s hiking safety guidelines.
Places to eat in Queenstown
- Pedro’s House of Lamb. Pedro’s is an absolute legend in Queenstown. They only serve one main menu item – leg of lamb, slow roasted on a spit and served with scalloped potatoes. The meat falls off the bone with a tap of the fork, and the roasting juices are heavenly. We pay them a well-deserved visit every single time we’re in Queenstown. The main shop is takeaway-only, although they have a new dine-in restaurant in the central shopping area. They do sell add-ons like bread and salad, but we usually get those from Pak N’ Save instead.
- Fergburger. Our usual late night haunt! Fergburger has since expanded into a bakery, a gelateria and a bar, but it’s the OG burgers that we go back for time and time again. My fave is Sweet Bambi, a venison burger with a chonky patty that’s a little pink on the inside. They are open until 4.30am, which is almost unprecedented in New Zealand.
- The Boatshed Cafe. Located next to the Frankton Marina, this cafe has some of the best views in Queenstown. You can dine outdoors right next to the lake if the weather is nice, or otherwise you can sit inside their beautifully-restored historic timber building.
- Patagonia Chocolates Ice Creamery & Chocolaterie. Okay, this one is a little bit touristy, but I just can’t help myself. They have a huge range of chocolate-y desserts, drinks, ice cream, and confectionary. You can buy chocolate bars, truffles, and bon bons to take home, and their range of flavors is unbeatable.
Tips for making the most out of your Queenstown trip
- Pak N’ Save sells everything, and I do mean everything. Want a bottle of delicious New Zealand riesling or sauvignon blanc or pinot noir to go with your takeaway leg of lamb? No need for a liquor store, head to Pak N’ Save. Forgot your warm socks? Ditto. Feel like some pavlova at 10pm? You can see where this is going.
- Book your activities ahead of time. Queenstown is a popular destination, and many activities will be booked out more than a week in advance. We missed out on the onsen hot pools during our honeymoon because of this – we booked too late, so we had to postpone the visit to our next trip! If you’re sure you want to do something, book it.
- Get out of central Queenstown. Yes, central Queenstown is beautiful and you should spend some time there, but don’t spend all your time there. The best part of Queenstown is that you are incredibly close to the New Zealand backcountry – you could drive for 15 minutes and find yourself in a stunning expanse of vast, sweeping landscapes, with nobody else around you.
- But also, be careful when you do that. The New Zealand backcountry is incredibly remote, which is both a drawcard and a killer. It’s easy for things to go wrong fast when you’re not prepared, and the fact that this can happen so close to a popular town is unheard of in most countries. There is no mobile phone reception in most of the backcountry, the weather can deteriorate quickly, your way back can be blocked off by snowfall or rising rivers, and hypothermia is a real risk. Have fun, but also be prepared.
Questions? Thoughts? Let me know and I’ll be happy to help.
